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It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the ratt of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard. The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Ansmann website, or purchased separately on eBay.
With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Buggy you may discover can easily be fixed. When you receive your used Ansmann Buggy, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced.
Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten. Next, for those Ansmann models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs.
The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up.
At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.
If the body shell of your Ansmann Mad-Rat is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Mad-Rat model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.
Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily. If you intend to race your Mad-Rat Buggy model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.
The gearbox of your used Buggy should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Buggy at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil ZX1 or Teflon Oil. Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting. Gears are a weakness on all Buggy RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears.
Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs. Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Buggy racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting.
A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry. The Mad-Rat steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality “Servo Saver”.
Check out my Servo Information article. If body roll on your Ansmann Mad-Rat is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers. If your used Ansmann Buggy comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings ring type bearingscheck the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts.
Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts.
For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings. Finally, good luck with your Mad-Rat model and good racing. RC Information and Advice: Aerodynamics for Radio Controlled Cars. Anti Squat for RC Beginners.
Battery Connectors – Which are the best? Batteries – Types and Charging.
Ansmann Racing Manuals | CompetitionX
Bearings – Professional Tips to make them work for you. Bumpsteer – What it is and how to avoid. Camber – The easy way to improve handling. Caster – To help your car go faster. Dampers – What they do and How they work. Drifting Tips – A step by step guide. Driving Tips – Drive fast, drive smooth. Droop – For more Stability and Grip. Electric Motors – Tune for Top Performance. ESC – History and Advice. Gearing your Car rar Win. Gear Mesh – Setting Tips.
Ansmann Racing Mad Rat Manual | CompetitionX
How to Repair a broken Plastic Part. Radio – Choice and avoid Problems. Ride Height – Find the optimum setting. Roll Center – What it is and affects. Servos – Types and Advice.
ANSMANN Mad Rat Instructions / Manual
Sway Bars for Radio Controlled Manul. Tires – for Buggys, Trucks and Truggys. Tires – for Carpet Racing and Drifting. Tires – for On-Road Tarmac Racing. Toe Angle – For Steering and Stability. Weight – Reduction tips and suggestions.
Wheel Balancing – for improved Stability. The model was based on a molded plastic chassis, with a ball differential, coil spring over oil filled dampers, universal joint drive shafts, slipper clutch and ball bearings.
Minute ansmaann can make huge advancements. Our easy to understand list will show you how and lead you to the optimum Set-up to put you in front of the ajsmann on the track. We give you all the basic information you need to guide you to the best Electric Motor for your Mad-Rat and achieve the best Gearingto get you in front on the track and keep raf there.
Find out how the worlds top professional RC racers get improved efficiency from their Bearings employing a number of sensible ideas.
Find the way to avoid Radio interference, and basic instruction on how to Charge your Batteriesso they will last longer and provide improved power. This is an ongoing project, with new and “lost in time” RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered mav relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.
Mae simple to make adjustment is considered by many to be one of the most effective changes you can make to your car for better handling.
Positive Camber is when the top of the wheel is angled outwards. Negative Camber has the top of the wheel angled inwards. First of all, get yourself a good camber gauge. All adjustments to your cars camber setting should be made with the car in race ray that means the motor, battery etc in position in the chassis. To check the angle of an On Road car, it must have the ride height already set to around 5mm.
Place the car on a perfectly flat surface, position your camber gauge against the side of the wheel you are checking and take the camber angle, normally this is between -1 and manuual degrees negative. Next, put a small 1mm thick piece of card under that corner of the car and push mda corner down until it touches the card. In this position, check the angle again. It should be between 0 and If not, pick up the car and put it back down on the flat ansmsnn, check and make adjustments, using the turnbuckle, that you consider are needed to achieve your goal.
Keep checking and adjusting and repeat for all four corners. What you are aiming for is an angle that will provide your car with the maximum amount of rubber on the track on high speed corners. Off Road cars can be adjusted in a similar manner to that described previously, with the ride height set at around 20mm, but in place of the card, use a small booklet or something around 5mm thick.
Mar optimal camber setting is a little more difficult to find for off road cars and depends generally of the track surface you are racing on. Slippery tracks generally require less camber because of reduced suspension movement when cornering, whereas high mar tracks require more camber to compensate for inertial induced body-roll.
Check your model manual for details. Be aware that for all model types, too much negative camber can reduce straight line traction, but with a good setting for any particular track, the advantage it gives, that of vastly improved cornering stability, far outweigh any negative effects. For beginners, this setting is mqnual far the easiest to experiment with.
Just take the car out on the back yard and with a few simple turns of a turnbuckle you will soon learn just what difference a small change in your cars setup can do to change its handling ability.
Good luck and good racing. I was the newbie and most of the guys I was racing against had all the latest mmanual, modified motors, matched batteries and top spec radio equipment, but I was still beating them easily. Ansjann answer is simple: